Apollo Hops

Apollo Hop Vines

What are Apollo Hops?

Apollo hops are a super alpha variety  of hops from the US. These hops contain 15-19% alpha acids and a low cohumulone level (24-28%). Thus, it makes it an ideal bittering hop. It was originally cultivated in 2000 by crossing hop variety 98001 and USDA 19058m and taking that result and crossing with Zeus.

When to use Apollo Hops?

When used at the end of the boil Apollo Hops contribute flavors and aromas of citrus, grapefruit, orange, pine, resin, and cannabis. Similar varieties are Bravo, Nugget and Columbus (CTZ). Apollo is great for use in Pale Ales, Extra Pale Ales, and IPA’s.

We use it in our clone of The Alchemist Heady Topper at flame out, whirlpool at 180°F and dry hop, with excellent results. Apollo stores very well with 80-90% alpha acids remaining after 6 months of storage at 68°F. Unrestricted Brewing carries Apollo Hops in 1 oz ($1.99) and 2 oz ($3.19) sizes. Like all of our hops, they are packed in nitrogen purged, resealable, light and vapor-proof bags.



Brew Your Perfect Beer in the Comfort of Your Own Home

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At Unrestricted Brewing we pride ourselves on offering the most relevant, up to date information for the beer brewing enthusiast. The site is separated into the different categories and steps it takes to brew a batch of numerous types of beer, from “all-extract” to “all-grain”– and all the brews in-between. Links can be found in the text to help you find important information and all of the necessary beer brewing products to outfit your very own home brewery.

While each page will give the average home brewer the basics and required general brewing knowledge, there are many other sources to find more in-depth information on brewing your own beer at home. One great source is “how to brew” by John Palmer. He gives a great introduction to home brewing, and if you like how he presents it you can buy his book and get more detailed information.

Another great starter read is “Homebrewing for Dummies” This book is designed to give the beginner home brewer a basic introduction to brewing beer at home, along with great recipes to start with. All recipes are given in “all-extract”, “partial-grain” and “all-grain” to suit the homebrewers situation. At Unrestricted Brewing, our goal is to offer a one stop comprehensive guide on not only how to brew your own beer, but finding the right home brewing equipment as well. One word of caution on “Homebrew Bulletin Boards” is that while a lot of the posters are quite knowledgeable on home brewing techniques, many of them are misinformed as well. So it is not always easy to decipher what is good information and what is not.

Thank you for visiting Unrestricted Brewing, and remember- the best beer is beer you made yourself!

Check out our Classes at https://www.unrestrictedbrewing.com/beer-brewing-classes/


Basic HomeBrew Instructions


Beer brewing is the process of converting starches from grains to sugars that yeast can absorb and produce alcohol. Hops are added to increase bitterness and balance out the sweetness of the malt.

Basic HomeBrew Instructions

  1. Soak malted barley in hot water to convert starch to sugar.
  2. Seperate and rinse sugars from grain into boil kettle.
  3. Add hops and boil to add bitterness and balance the malt sweetness.
  4. Cool the liquid and add yeast to begin fermentation.
  5. As the yeast ferments the sugars it will produce by-products of CO2 and ethyl alcohol.
  6. After fermentation is complete bottle the beer with priming sugar to provide carbonation.

Home brewed beer can start with a malt extract syrup, or dried malt extract to produce the malt sugars in a process called “Extract Brewing”. For advanced brewing the home brewer can use a process called “All-Grain Brewing” where instead of malt extract the use of all grains would be used.

There are some variations that home brewers can use depending on their comfort level:
  • Extract Brewing” is the easiest, quickest and uses the least amount of equipment thereby keeping your investment cost down. Extract Brewing starts with a pre-made syrup called  malt extract. The extract is created from the process of converting the starch in malted grains, by mashing, to sugar and boiled down so you don’t have to mash grains at all.
  • Steeping Grain” is the next step up from extract brewing. Steeping (specialty) grains are used in addition to the extract to add additional color, flavor, body and un-fermentable sugars to further refine the style of the beer.
  • Partial Mashing” is substituting some of the malt extract with grain in addition to the steeping grains.
  • All-Grain Brewing” is easy to do! It does require additional equipment and will take about 6 hours of time on brew day. In this process you will use malted grain in place of the malt extract.

There are two types of beer yeast, ale and lager. Ale yeast ferments on the surface at temperatures between 60 and 70 degrees F, while lager yeast ferments on the bottom at cooler temps between 45-55 degrees F.

Use any type of safe and good tasting water such as tap, filtered, or bottled drinking water.

Check out our Classes at https://www.unrestrictedbrewing.com/beer-brewing-classes/

Fermentation Package with Bucket, Carboy and Brew Kettle

HomeBrewing Equipment

If you’re just getting started in homebrewing, welcome! Here’s a great list of minimum homebrewing equipment required:


Extract Brewing

Extract Brewing starts with an un-hopped liquid malt extract. The extract is a pre-made syrup from the process of converting the starch in malted grains to sugar and boiled down.


Steeping Grain

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Using steeping grain (specialty grain) will add color, flavor, body and un-fermentable sugars to extract brews.  Most specialty grains have already been malted. Malting is the process of converting the natural starch in the barley kernel into sugar. These grains are then kiln dried. As the grains are dried, the sugars inside caramelize, or crystallize. This is where the name crystal malt comes from. Certain steeping grain like roasted barley or chocolate malt are not malted, they are simply burnt. The very dark grains are rated at 300+ Lovibond and give off a rich roast character. The Lovibond scale is used to rate how much color these steeping grains will add to your beer. Other grains are lightly toasted, like Victory or Amber malt. These grains often give off a nutty taste. Flaked grains must be mashed and should not be steeped. They can be easily used in a partial mash when combined with 2-row malt.

Check out our Classes at https://www.unrestrictedbrewing.com/beer-brewing-classes/


Brewing with Steeping Grains should not be viewed as inferior to brewing with all-grain, it is merely easier. It takes up less space and uses less equipment. National competition’s can be won by using steeping grain. The reason to move from Steeping Grain to Partial Mashes and then to All-Grain is to be more creative and combine different malts and hops for an endless amount of flavors and beer styles. Most home brewers using the Steeping Grain process will be using the partial boil method on top of their kitchen stove which is described below, if you want to do a full boil process you would start with 6 gallons of water in an 8 gallon brewing kettle on an outdoor burner that is capable of generating enough heat to boil the contents.

Partial Boil with Steeping Grain

  1. Boil and cool 3.5 gallons of any good quality drinking water. Do not use distilled water, there are no minerals and nutrients for the yeast.
  2. Pour this water into the Sanitized 6-1/2 Gallon Glass Carboy Fermenter and cover with foil or plastic wrap to keep bacteria out. Do not pour hot water into a glass container or breakage will occur.
  3. Fill your 5 Gallon Stainless Steel Brew Kettle with 2.5 gallons of cool water. Add the steeping grain to your Muslin Bag and soak in the water as it is heating. The grain bag may be dunked and swirled like a tea bag during this time to make sure that all of the grain is wet. Moving it around will help to improve the yield, but don’t splash. Even though a color change will be noticeable early on, steep the grain tea for at least twenty minutes or until the temperature of the water reaches 170˚F. Do not steep the grains in water over 170 degrees or bitter flavors will be extracted from the hulls. The grains are steeped for at least 20 minutes and up to an hour at 150˚F for maximum efficiency.
  4. Once the steeping grain is finished steeping remove them and allow them to drain back into the kettle using a colander or mesh strainer. If you want you may rinse the steeping grain (sparge) by pouring about two pints of hot water (170˚F) over the grain and allow rinse water to drip back into the brew pot. Sparging rinses the flavor and some sugars that would otherwise be left behind.
    DO NOT WRING OUT GRAIN! This extracts harsh tannins giving the beer an astringent taste. Add more water to bring the volume up to 3 gallons total and bring the liquid to a boil.
  5. Turn the heat off and add the malt extract syrup. This will help prevent scorching the malt on the bottom of the pot after it is added. Be sure to mix and dissolve all of the malt extract completely before returning to heat.
  6. Place the pot back on the heat and bring it to a boil. Do not cover the brew kettle. Covering the brew kettle will help achieve a quicker boil, but can also contribute to an off-flavor in your final product. When the malt is boiled, it boils off sulfur compounds. Without the lid, the compounds boil off as vapor, with the lid on, they may reappear as condensate, dripping back into your kettle and creeping into your finished beer. Boil over’s tend to happen easier with the lid on, so just leave it off and don’t worry. Watch the first few minutes of the boil to avoid a boil over. Reducing the heat and fanning will help reduce the chances of a boil over happening. Continue with a vigorous boil for 60 minutes.
  7. At the beginning of the boil a foamy substance will slowly rise and cover your kettle surface. This foam is a product of the proteins present in the malt. These proteins begin to coagulate during the boiling process and rise to the surface, when clumped together the proteins will become heavy and drop to the bottom of your pot again, this is referred to as the “hot break”. This foam will persist until the wort goes through the “hot break” stage in five to twenty-five minutes. Many brewers will await the hot break before beginning their hop additions and timing their 60 minute boil, but it is not required.
  8. At this point, the mixture is called wort (pronounced wert). Wort is a term for the unfermented beer. The wort will be transformed as hops are added to balance the malt.
Adding Pellet Hops
Transferring (Racking)
How to Start a Siphon
Checking Gravity of Homebrew Beer

Measure your brew’s specific gravity with a hydrometer. Hydrometer readings before and after fermentation tells us whether or not fermentation is complete and can help estimate the alcohol content of the finished beer. Record this number, your original specific gravity (OG) to use as a reference moving forward.

A good rule of thumb, measure your original gravity prior to pitching your yeast, then at any time you might transfer your beer, either to another container or, during bottling/kegging before the priming sugar is added.

  1. To use the hydrometer to check the OG from the primary fermenter first cover the fermenter with saran wrap on the glass carboys or the lid on the plastic buckets, then shake it to mix the ingredients thoroughly. Often the hotter, thicker wort will settle to the bottom. All other checks need to be done without shaking or stiring. Samples can be taken while racking with a siphon hose into the sample collector.
  2. Make sure the fermenter is at an even temperature throughout to get an accurate reading.
  3. Remove saran wrap or lid and pour out a small sample into a pint glass.
  4. Pour this sample into the hydrometer test jar.
  5. Replace airlock or blow-off tubing and then check the gravity by floating hydrometer in flask.

For best results the hydrometer reading should be taken at 60 degrees F. Where the fluid meets the glass rod is where the reading should be taken on the specific gravity scale.

Pitching Yeast
  1. The process that converts the wort to beer is called fermentation, it begins on brew day and ends a week or two later.
  2. Since yeast requires oxygen for their respiration phase it is a good idea to thoroughly aerate the wort by shaking your fermenter or splashing the wort into the fermenter. The dry yeast may now be added.
  3. The brewing term for adding yeast to wort is pitching. Early on in our brew day we prepared our yeast for this moment. Go ahead and sanitize a pair of scissors and sanitize the area you will cut on the actual yeast package. Remember, odd elements, bacteria and the like can destroy our beer. Sanitize, sanitize, sanitize. Once the wort has cooled to room temperature open the packet and pour it directly into the wort.
  4. Place a sanitized rubber stopper on to the sanitized Airlock and insert the stopper into the carboy fermenter. Fill airlock halfway with water. This allows CO2 gas to escape without letting in the bad things.
  5. Move your vessel into a dark, secure location where it will be undisturbed for two weeks. Choose a location that has a stable temperature of 65˚-70°F. A warmer temperature of 75°F is okay, but above 80°F the flavor of the beer will be affected. Basements and closets are great places to store your beer during the fermentation process. The temperature of your brew will typically remain somewhat steady and your brew will encounter little exposure to light. You may want to store your brew in an area that is easily cleaned, a particularly violent fermentation could cause a bit of a mess.
Determining alcohol by weight (a.b.w.) and alcohol by volume (a.b.v.)
Partial Mash - Learn to Brew - Unrestricted Brewing

Partial Mashing

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Partial Mashing is the process of breaking down starch into fermentable and nonfermentable sugars by mixing with temperature controlled water. Rather than just dissolving the existing sugar from the barley kernel as in steeping, you must actually develop the proper conditions for enzymes to break down starch into sugar. To do this, temperature is critical as is the proper time allowed for the conversion to take place. Use partial mashing for any grain with a starchy white center and for all recipes requiring the use of flaked barley, oats, or wheat etc. With any grain combination it is a good idea to use at least 50% 2-row pale malt to ensure enzyme activity and proper conversion during partial mashing.

Check out our Classes at https://www.unrestrictedbrewing.com/beer-brewing-classes/

Partial Mashing Procedure

  1. Put water into pot and heat until you reach 168˚F. Use about 1 quart of water per pound of grain that you intend to mash.
  2. Turn off heat and add grain either in grain bag, or loose if you intend to strain with a strainer.
  3. Stabilize temperature of water between 150˚-155˚F either by adding cold water or adding heat. Your temp should be approximately 150˚-155˚F without doing too much, just adding the grain to the heated water usually drops the temp about 15˚F.
  4. You should now try to maintain this temp for a full hour. If the temp drops you can add heat carefully so as to not over heat the mix. By raising the temp one degree then turning off heat will usually cause the mix to raise several degrees as the temp reads slow on most thermometers. Just be careful not to heat the grain mix much higher than 158˚F.
  5. During the one hour mash period you should be heating your rinse water (sparge water) which you will pour over the grain to wash out the sugars and flavor. This water should be heated to 170˚F. Use about 1/2 gallon of water at 170˚F to sparge each pound of grain.
  6. After an hour of mashing and you have your sparge water up to temp, lift the grain bag up so it is dripping into the pot and begin raining the sparge water slowly over the grain allowing the drippings to fall into the pot. Do this until most of the water is run through and then discard grain. Do not wring out grain as this will cause harsh tannins to be extracted. Because you sparged, or rinsed the grain, there will be little flavor or sugar left anyway, so there is no point in worrying about the water absorbed in the grain. If you are not using a grain bag then you will need to pour the mix through a strainer into another container and then sparge the grain left in the strainer by pouring the sparge water over the grain collecting the runnings.
  7. To this mixture you can now add your malt extract syrup or dry malt extract and dissolve it completely.
  8. Bring this to a boil and add hops as usual.
Adding Pellet Hops
Transferring (Racking)
How to Start a Siphon
Checking Gravity of Homebrew Beer
Pitching Yeast
Primary Fermentation
  1. Let it sit and make sure it starts bubbling out the airlock within 24 hours. If it doesn’t your yeast may be ineffective. As the yeast convert malt sugars into CO2 and alcohol you will see bubbles come through the airlock.
  2. The specific gravity will steadily drop and a cap of thick tanish foam called krausen forms above the beer. It should ferment actively for about 2-6 days. Roughly one to two weeks from brew day, fermentation ends. Bubbles coming through the airlock become very slow or stop entirely, the specific gravity is stable and the cap of foam starts to subside.
  3. Leave the beer in the fermentor for one week after airlock has bubbling slowed to one or two bubbles per minute. This will give the yeast a chance to drop and clear the beer as well as mop up any adverse flavors.
  4. After that, the beer will need time to settle and clear. 10-12 days total is a good benchmark for the beer to be in the fermenter. Just make sure it has stopped bubbling when you decide to bottle or is bubbling no more than once every thirty seconds. If you are using a hydrometer the reading should be approximately 1.010 to 1.020. If it is higher but inactive then just make sure it remains at a constant reading over three days. Your beer may ferment in as little as two days due to highly active yeast or warmer temperatures. Just be sure it is finished and wait 8 days even if it looks like it is done. To be sure take a hydrometer reading.
Partial Mashing - Learn to Brew | Unrestricted Brewing
Secondary Fermentation
  1. During our fermentation process, we see a layer of krausen form atop our beer, where does it go? That krausen normally dissipates over time and any remaining grain particles, hop particles and dead yeast cells will accumulate instead at the bottom of your fermenter in a mass known as “trub”.
  2. While sitting on this trub for a short while can impart flavors we want to see in a beer, letting our brew sit atop this trub for too long can create flavors we don’t want. To avoid these flavors setting in, we will rack the brew out of the first fermenter, careful to leave the trub behind and into a new, clear and clean fermenter. Doing so allows the brew to settle out and condition in flavor. It also give the brewer an opportunity to clear out the beer, after racking the beer into a secondary fermenter, still more trub may form, but when racked into bottles during the final stage the beer should be less hazy and more clear than it started off.
  3. Remember, when racking into a new, secondary fermenter, it is equally important that this vessel is clean and sanitary. Be sure to sanitize your auto-siphon , carboy, airlock and stopper and any tubing that may come in contact with the brew.
  4. All transfers should be done “quietly,” and very little disturbance in the flow and minimal contact with the air. Exposure to air at this point oxidises the beer causing a “cardboard” taste.
Determining alcohol by weight (a.b.w.) and alcohol by volume (a.b.v.)
  1. Your first reading (original gravity [O.G.]) = 1.045 sometimes this is refered to as Starting Gravity (S.G.)
  2. Your second reading (final or finishing gravity[F.G.]) = 1.010
  3. Subtract final from original. 1.045 – 1.010 = 0.035
  4. Multiply this figure by 105: 0.035 x 105 = 3.68% a.b.w.
  5. Therefore, you have a beer of 3.68% alcohol by weight.
  6. To get Alcohol by volume simply multiply your figure for % a.b.w. by 1.25
  7. 3.69 x 1.25 = 4.6% a.b.v.
All Grain Brewing Package with Mash Tun, Brew Kettle and Hot Liquor Tank

All-Grain HomeBrewing

The main reason to do All-Grain HomeBrewing is simply increased creativity. Brewing beer is an art, so why not take it all the way and be as creative as you want?


Sanitizing HomeBrewing Equipment

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The most important thing in brewing a great tasting home brewed beer is good cleaning and sanitation. Sanitizing HomeBrewing Equipment is the single most important thing you will do in the whole process of beer making, it is the only thing you should stress over.

The first step is to clean all home brew equipment with a mild, unscented dish detergent followed by a thorough rinse. Cleaning brewing equipment requires scrubbing any and all grungy deposits that can harbor bacteria. A dirty surface can never be completely sanitized because the sanitizer will not penetrate the grunge. For this reason it is vital to always clean before sanitizing your home brew equipment. The second step is to sanitize everything that will come in contact with the beer after the liquid has been boiled and cooled. Several cleaning and sanitation products available to the home brewer are discussed below.

Check out our Classes at https://www.unrestrictedbrewing.com/beer-brewing-classes/


Dish and laundry detergents and cleansers should be used with caution when cleaning brewing equipment. These products often contain perfumes that can be adsorbed onto plastic equipment and released back into the beer. In addition, some detergents and cleansers do not rinse completely and often leave behind a film that can be tasted in the beer. Several rinses with hot water may be necessary to remove all traces of the detergent. A mild unscented dish washing detergent like Ivory is a good choice for most of the routine Home Brewing Equipment cleaning needs. Only stubborn stains or burnt-on deposits will require something stronger.


Powdered Brewery Wash” is a great solution for cleaning. It is an environmentally friendly, caustic cleaner and because of its unique formulation of buffers and mild alkalis, it Is safe on skin as well as soft metals such as stainless steel, aluminum and plastics. PBW has been formulated as a “Clean in Place” (CIP) cleaner and is very effective in removing protein soils found on Brew Kettles and Fermenters and does not require heat to work. Use 2 Oz per 5 gallons warm water, soak for 30 minutes and rinse with warm water. PBW is only a cleaner and the equipment will still need to be sanitized before using. Remember, you need to clean before you can sanitize.


Bleach is one of the most versatile cleaners available to the home brewer. When dissolved in cold water, it forms a caustic solution that is good at breaking up organic deposits like food stains and brewing gunk. Bleach is a bactericidal with cleaning powers, but is also corrosive to a number of metals used in brewing equipment. Bleach should not be used for cleaning brass and copper because it causes blackening and excessive corrosion. Bleach can be used to clean stainless steel, but you need to be careful to prevent corrosion and pitting.

Guidelines to keep in mind when using bleach to clean stainless steel:
  • Do not leave the metal in contact with chlorinated water for extended periods of time (no more than an hour).
  • Fill vessels completely so corrosion does not occur at the waterline.
  • After the cleaning or sanitizing treatment, rinse the item with boiled water and dry the item completely.

Sanitizing HomeBrewing Equipment


The cheapest and most readily available sanitizing solution is made by adding 1 tablespoon of bleach (non-scented) to 1 gallon of water. Let the items soak for 20 minutes, and then drain. Rinsing is supposedly not necessary at this concentration, but many brewers, myself included, rinse with some boiled water anyway to be sure of no off-flavors from the chlorine.

Star San

Star San is an acidic sanitizer from the makers of PBW and was developed especially for sanitizing brewing equipment. It requires only 30 seconds of contact time and does not require rinsing. Unlike other no-rinse sanitizer’s, Star San will not contribute off-flavors at higher than recommended concentrations. The recommended usage is one fluid ounce per 5 gallons of water. The solution can be put in a spray bottle and used as a spray-on sanitizer for glassware or other items that are needed in a hurry. The foam is just as effective as immersion in the solution. Also, the surfactant used in Star San will not affect the head retention of beer like those used in detergents.

A solution of Star San has a long usage life and an open bucket of it will remain active for several days. Keeping a solution of Star San in a closed container will increase its shelf life. The viability of the solution can be judged by its clarity; it turns cloudy as the viability diminishes.

One last note on this product: Because it is listed as a sanitizer and bactricide by the FDA and EPA, the container must list disposal warnings that are suitable for pesticides. Do not be alarmed, it is less hazardous to your skin than bleach.


Iodophor is a solution of iodine complexed with a polymer carrier that is very convenient to use. One tablespoon in 5 gallons of water (15 ml in 19 l) is all that is needed to sanitize equipment with a two minute soak time. This produces a concentration of 12.5 ppm of titratable iodine. Soaking equipment longer, for 10 minutes, at the same concentration will disinfect surfaces to hospital standards. At 12.5 ppm the solution has a faint brown color that you can use to monitor the solution’s viability. If the solution loses its color, it no longer contains enough free iodine to work. There is no advantage to using more than the specified amount of iodophor. In addition to wasting the product, you risk exposing yourself and your beer to excessive amounts of iodine.

Iodophor will stain plastic with long exposures, but that is only a cosmetic problem. The 12.5 ppm concentration does not need to be rinsed, but the item should be allowed to drain before use.

Yeast Prep - Learn to Brew Beer - Unrestricted Brewing

Yeast Preparation

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Yeast Preparation is essential to a healthy fermentation, below are the three types of yeast available to the homebrewer.

There is a choice between using liquid yeast or dry yeast. If you are using the liquid Wyeast ‘smack pack’, you will activate the pack by breaking the inner pouch with a firm smack. The best way to use Wyeast is to smack it a few hours before (or the night before) you plan to start brewing, and make sure that it inflates before you pitch it in the wort.

If you are using White Labs Liquid Yeast it can be used right out of the tube. Let it sit out of the refrigerator a few hours to come up to room temperature, cold shock can kill some of the yeast causing for a slow or incomplete fermentation. Although it can be used as is, it is a good idea to make a yeast starter 24 to 48 hours in advance to increase the yeast count and reduce the lag phase of when the yeast begin to work on making your beer.

Dry Ale Yeast can be used straight out of the packet by sprinkling on the surface of the wort once it is in the fermenter and cooled to room temperature. Although Dry Yeast can be used as is, it is a good idea to “proof” the yeast by first rehydrating it. Although many people skip this step with fair results, re-hydrating it assures the best results. While you are waiting for the brew water to boil, put 1 cup of warm (95˚-105°F), pre-boiled water into your sanitized 2-cup measuring container and stir in the yeast. Cover with plastic wrap, foil or the lid and wait 15 minutes.

Next, “proof” the yeast by adding one teaspoon of Dry Malt Extract to 1/4 cup water and boil it to sanitize. Allow the malt solution to cool to same temperature as yeast and then add the two together. Cover and place in a warm area out of direct sunlight. After 30 minutes it should be exhibiting some signs of activity such as some foaming and/or churning. If it just seems to sit on the bottom of the jar, then it is probably dead. Repeat the re-hydration procedure with different yeast.

Check out our Classes at https://www.unrestrictedbrewing.com/beer-brewing-classes/

Yeast Preparation

No matter how good your technique is there will always be some degree of contaminants in your wort and given enough time they will take over the fermentation. This means that you want the yeast to get going first and take hold of the wort before all other organisms have a chance too. Making a yeast starter 24 to 48 hours in advance to increase the yeast count and reduce the lag phase of when the yeast begin to work on making your beer will help insure that your home brewed beer comes out tasting great without any infections from other wild yeast and bacteria.

  1. Activate yeast culture by popping internal nutrient pouch. If yeast has no nutrient pouch then go to step #3.
  2. Allow yeast to incubate in a warmer place for 24 hours or until pouch is swelled. The yeast will go dormant if their food source runs out so it is better not to wait more than 48 hours before going to step 3.
  3. Take 5 tablespoons of dry malt extract or 6 tablespoons of syrup malt and dissolve in 16 ounces (1 pint) of water in a saucepan. Do not use sugar as it lacks nutrients that the yeast requires.
  4. Boil this mix for 15 minutes and then turn off heat and cover pan. Let cool for 10 minutes.
  5. Into a sanitized 22 ounce or larger beer bottle that has been heated with hot tap water funnel in mix from pan (funnel should be sanitized as well).
  6. Affix airlock and rubber stopper. Allow this mix to cool to room temp. (approx. 75˚-85˚F)
  7. Remove airlock and quickly pour in yeast.
  8. Replace airlock and shake mix vigorously to aerate well.
  9. Allow to sit in warmer place (75˚-85˚F) for 12-24 hours
  10. You will now brew your 5 gallon batch when your starters ready.
  11. To add yeast swirl bottle to re-suspend yeast then remove airlock and using a lighter flame opening of bottle to kill any bacteria that may have settled on the lip of the bottle. Now pour contents of bottle into the cool 5 gallon batch and ferment as normal. You should expect about a 12-24 hour start up time for fermentation to be evident.